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Understanding the Notches on Patterns 00

Understanding the Notches on Patterns

Understanding the Notches on Patterns

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Understanding Pattern Notches When you first start using paper patterns it is like trying to learn a new language. They are covered in lines, words, odd symbols and lots of little black triangles which known as notches. Notches are also sometimes shown as a small line perpendicular to the cutting line. The purpose of notches is to help you join pieces of the pattern together correctly.  If a pattern piece has a notch on it there will be a corresponding notch on the pattern piece that it joins to. By making sure that the notches match up you will be joining the two seams together correctly and in the right place. Sometimes you will see two notches together.  Where you have this you are always matching two notches up with two notches on the corresponding pattern piece.  One place where you will see two notches is on a sleeve.  One notch indicates the front of the sleeve and there are two notches on the back.  This means you know which side is the back of the sleeve and it will prevent you from putting the sleeve in backwards. When you cut your fabric out you need to mark the notches onto the fabric. One way is that when you get to the notch you cut a small triangle into the waste fabric so that it stands out from the edge of your pattern piece.  The advantage of this method is that it is probably the easiest way to see where the notches are so that they can be matched.  The disadvantage is it will slow you down when cutting out your fabric and it is easy to accidentally go past the notch without cutting the triangle. A quicker and more popular way is to make a small cut into the seam allowance where the notch is. However make sure your cut is shorter than your seam allowance or it will show on your finished garment! The important thing to remember is that notches must match up. If they don’t check again that you are sewing the correct pieces of the pattern...

Sewing Newsletter 00

Sewing Newsletter

Sewing Newsletter

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Out today full of tips and techniques and a list of fabric shops! Click here to see the newsletter and to sign up for future editions.

Where to Buy Fabric 00

Where to Buy Fabric

Where to Buy Fabric

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Where to Buy Fabric The following is a list of places you have told us you have bought fabric. Do remember when you are buying online it is worth asking for a sample first. Pictures on the internet can be misleading and there is no substitute for seeing and feeling the fabric before you buy. If you have a gem of a place you buy your fabric do let us know so we can spread the word. Rolls and Rems 111 High Street, Lewisham, London, SE13 6AT, Tel. 020 8852 8686. A tardis of a shop. They have a wide selection of materials including curtain material in the upstairs area. They also have many ribbons and buttons etc. and patterns. Swanley Market in Kent The market is on a Wednesday and sells some lovely fabric. Hayes Village Hall, Hayes Kent There is a fabric sale on the last Friday of the month. Plush Addict http://www.plushaddict.co.uk/ Based in Edenbridge, Kent, they are mostly mail order but do have ‘open days’ which are great. As well as fabric they stock haberdashery and are very quick to send orders out and are very helpful. Frumble www.frumble.co.uk/ A mail order site which is based in Birmingham. They have some lovely fabric and are very helpful. Bromley Market On a Thursday there are two fabric stalls, Friday and Saturday there is one, both very good value and on Thursday and Saturday there is the most wonderful and reasonably priced HABERDASHERY STALL. Denis has an excellent range if ribbons, zips, cottons etc and will always do his best to help and give advice (if you need it!). World of Sewing The main branch is in Tunbridge Wells and is a great shop which as well as fabric etc sells and will repair sewing machines. They also have an outlet in Pratts Bottom. Abakhan Fabrics. http://www.abakhan.co.uk/ An amazing fabric warehouse in North Wales which also has an online shop. Belle Fabrics. 6-12 Elm road, Leigh on Sea, Essex. This does not have an online shop but has a lovely range of fabric and worth a visit if you are in the area. Fabricland . http://www.fabricland.co.uk/ Fabricland has a number of shops, although none of them are very local to South London. They do have an website with a huge range of fabric on it. The website is not easy to navigate but if you are looking...

What is Stay Stitching and Why do we need it? 00

What is Stay Stitching and Why do we need it?

What is Stay Stitching and Why do we need it?

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What is Stay Stitching and Why do we need it? When you read through or follow dressmaking patterns you will often see references to the phrase “stay stitching” but what actually is it, why do we need it and are there any ways that we can skip using it when we are stitching?  What is stay stitching? Stay Stitching is the term given to a row of stitches which are placed inside the seam allowance. The purpose of stay stitch is to ensure the fabric that you are using keeps its shape. When do we need it? When you cut out your chosen fabric you are normally cutting either parallel or vertical to the fabric selvedge.  This process is called straight of grain. However there are also times that you will need to cut at an angle to the selvedge. This is called cutting across the grain or on the “bias”. When you make these cuts on the bias you will be exposing the stretchiest part of the fabric. In doing this you will find that the fabric is now more likely to stretch and ultimately lose its shape. Stay Stitching is the best way to offer stabilisation and protect your fabric against this occurring. How do you stay stitch? When working through your pattern you will find that there are parts that tell you which of the pattern pieces need to be stay stitched.  These will normally be neck and armhole edges. In order to complete the Stay Stitch you will need to carefully sew a line of stitches around the curved edge, close to it but always within the seam allowance. Sewing within the seam allowance will mean that you will not be able to see the stitches on the finished garment once you have sewn the seam. It is important at this stage to be careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew it. Stay stitching is often removed after the seam is sewn. Your pattern will guide you with this. Can we skip it? Ultimately the answer is no as it is important to have some sort of stabilising stitch when completing a project of this type. After all, marking a garment is hard work and something that will take you time and effort.  Should you choose to not Stay Stitch then you will risk the fabric stretching and your finished garment looking out...

Our new newsletter dedicated to sewing has arrived! 00

Our new newsletter dedicated to sewing has arrived!

Our new newsletter dedicated to sewing has arrived!

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Issue 1 is out today!  We have tried to send it to everyone that has booked a sewing class with us. If you would like to receive future newsletters and view the first one click here.

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